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m3mb3rsh1p

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  1. Dead again . Sigh, I think I'll just go back to my reliable Intel motherboard.
  2. Back in business! thanks to Bronxteck as well and all the hard working people who put the effort into getting things done and keeping technology a fun hobby I'm noticing now that my fan doesn't seem to increase speed so I'll try that l8kfan.kext. Also, I had almost given up when the system didn't turn on after the bake but realised that I hadn't screwed the cpu latch all the way. Phew. This has been quite the adventure!
  3. INCREDIBLE!!! First of all, Hervé, I must thank and exalt you for your help and adivce. You are a pillar of support in this community, ever at the ready to answer questions and solve problems for us. Hail Hervé! Secondly, I am amazed that this actually worked!! I haven't put my laptop back together yet so it might not be a done deal, but I connected the cables and powered it on long enough to see the Dell logo and boot process on the LCD. I could not contain my excitement and I also want to take some time finding the right thickness of shims to provide tight contact with the heatsink. Before I put the motherboard in the oven, I was able to get a striped image from the external port by disconnecting the LCD cable. Surprisingly, this allowed the external display to work (with vertical striped on it) but it would freeze after the OS was loaded. I had to press F8 on my DOS recovery USB disk and select "safe mode+command prompt only" and was able to get to the prompt where I successfully upgraded my BIOS to A19. The new/restored BIOS did not resolve any issues so I decided to take your advice and placed the motherboard on a piece of cardboard in the oven at 200C for 10 minutes. Success!?! WOW. Now I'll spend the next hour or two tweaking my shims and hope the fix stays. Merci beaucoup, Hervé. You saved my OSXLatitude!
  4. I had recently upgraded my D630 from Intel to Nvidia and believed it would last a long time with the copper shims I installed that appeared to be keeping temperatures around 72 degrees at the highest load. To my surprise, however, The graphics chip seems to have failed suddenly. I did not experience the gradual artifacts as others have; just two OS hangs/freezes and then a blank screen. There is no video on the external port either (fn CRT) even at boot although my monitor detects a non-supported format. The Last thing I was doing was watching Netflix. I had just turned off HD because my system appeared to be outmatched and was also testing the "Media Hint" Firefox add-on. I initially suspected that this add-on was the culprit because I have not experienced any video issues before aside from slow playback/tearing with HD video. Is it possible that MY BIOS Was corrupted or is the chip surely dead? I can go back to my Intel motherboard but am hoping this problem is fixable. Thanks for any help.
  5. Have you followed the performance tuning article? http://www.osxlatitude.com/tuning-performance-with-fakesmc-smbios-plist/ I've tried many different combinations and found the following items to be of critical importance: Run EDP and in the CPU/Powermanagement tab, select either nothing or only patch AppleIntel.... I don't think it makes a difference. When EDP is done, reboot then download the FakeSMC from the article and edit it as described. Delete the unwanted files from /Extra as described int the article. Running EDP always installs a new IntelCPU kext which should be deleted Run MyFix full. Set the MacBook pro 5.1 in the smbios.plist using chameleon wizard (as you have done) Using chameleon wizard, make sure that a. 32-bit kernel is NOT selected. Nvidia graphics should use 64-bit kernel. b. generate P-State, C-state, enable C1-C4 are selected
  6. The fan actually turns off in Windows? Wow! So in Mac, the fan stays at high speed when idle? Then that's a problem. Mine with Mavericks is at a very low speed at idle and I can't even hear it. You said your SMBIOS/SMC version is Mac Pro... did you mean Macbook Pro? I think that's the recommended one.
  7. I think the fan should always stay on. It is the fan that is keeping the idle temperature low. It's like the chicken and the egg problem. If the fan was turned off, then the idle temperature would rise quickly and the fan would have to come on at a high speed to lower the temperature quickly then go off for a minute and have to come back on etc. Even at idle the chips are still working, there is heat being generated and it has to be dissipated. Unlike desktops, the design of laptops does not allow for heat to escape passively because there is no airflow to the heatsink. the fan provides the only airflow so it is better for it to stay on at a low speed and keep the idle temperature at a constant low than for it to come on at high speed then turn off repeatedly. Maybe ultra low power chips with 10W TDP would have a low enough idle temperature that airflow is not a problem but our D6xx with 35W TDP CPUs and a GPU sharing a tiny heatsink need active cooling to maintain low temperatures even at idle.
  8. One thing that helped me get over kernel panic while working on getting Mavericks on my D630 was booting in safe mode. Press any key at the boot screen then type -x for safe mode. If that works and takes you to the desktop, you can install Extra from your USB disk, I think and if that works you can restore your EDP... You might have to run from terminal though. Worth a try.
  9. I replaced my Intel motherboard with an Nvidia version from ebay and have been successful in getting lower temperatures using copper shims. The motherboard came with a T7500. After much trial and error and following the "Performance tuning using FakeSMC..." article, my temperature readings are now: Lowest idle temp.: CPU - 36 deg. @796MHz; GPU - 55 deg. @168Mhz Highest temp. Netflix HD: CPU - 62 deg. @2200MHz; GPU - 72 deg. @400MHz I used a 0.3mm shim on the CPU and 1.2/1.5mm?? shims (I don't quite remember) on the other two chips, all with Arctic MX-3. Hopefully this will keep my laptop alive for a long time. Thanks to everyone here for all their work.
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