bobdamnit

As of the latest EDP, VGA out now works properly on the D520 as well.

Good point. Don't know how I missed that.

If its a Broadcom card, you should not have to remove it. 90% of them work out of the box for OS X. Maybe the USB stick is corrupt. Try re-making the myHack USB installer again and see if that works.

Also, SigmaTel makes audio cards, not wireless cards. So something tells me that they did NOT make your wireless card.

Yup, definitely a badly made USB installer. I'd re-try making it if you can and see if that helps.

The D530 comes with the GMA 965 chipset, so its definitely the X3100. BIOS A08 is the newest available for the D530. To be honest, although mine is a D520, the D530 is closer to the D630, as far as specifications go. I'd setup the BIOS according to this thread: https://osxlatitude.com/index.php?/topic/1868-bios-settings-d630/ Then be sure you are supplying myHack with a proper bootpack from here when you create your USB install disk (Be sure you get the one for 10.7!): http://argo.osxlatitude.com/edp/bootpack/ You can open the installer log when installing OS X. As soon as you start installing, tap Alt+L to bring up the installer log. Switch the reporting (Upper left-hand corner) in the installer log to "Show Everything" and then begin writing down where it is at when it freezes. If you can, take a photograph of it frozen and post it here.

First, which version of OS X? Second, is it an AppStore version? Third, which BIOS version are you currently running? Fourth, did you follow the setup guide exactly, including supplying myHack with the proper D530 bootpack? You really aren't answering our questions, which makes it MUCH more difficult to answer your questions.

Is your hard drive setup as AHCI, and not stuck in IDE? This is the biggest culprit for this error.

Open System Preferences and click "Keyboard'. Open the "Keyboard" tab, then select "Modifier Keys". Make "Command" be "Option", and vise versa. This will setup the "Windows" key as the Apple key. (Command.) You can also setup the "Control" key to be the Apple key if you want, as it acts more like the "Control" key in Windows. (Does copy/past/save etc..)

I've had excellent results re-flowing broken Xbox 360's in the oven. Problem gets when you can't fine tune your oven (by 1-3 degrees) to get the proper melting point without baking the PCB. (Printed Circuit Board) I do not recommend this method at all in any American consumer oven. (For example, a GE or a Magic Chef oven purchased for home use.) An easier method is getting a commercial heat gun and build a "rig" to hold the heat gun as near/far to the PCB as you would like. Try it on junk electronics. Burn the solder out, then re-flow it so you can fine tune your heat gun/procedure and get in some good practice before you attempt this on something that might be able to be fixed. Non-commercial heat guns will work, however you cannot adjust the temperature when necessary. You have to move the gun closer/further to the object you are re-flowing. If you cannot get a gun that adjusts temperature, try to get a max temperature reading on the gun. (Google, read the manual for the gun, etc...) This will give you a general idea on how hot the gun gets on direct heat. If you have a laser thermometer, you can really make a non-commercial heat gun shine, because it will tell you how hot you are flowing and you can adjust accordingly. Know your re-flow solder melting point! Certain re-flow kits are selling low heat solder. While this isn't bad, they dont expressly tell you that its low-heat. I've done this, sadly. Re-flow an Xbox360 and ruin it, because of low-heat solder. You end up with a PCB thats basically useless, because its coated in solder. Being able to set your temperature and having a steady hand (an adjustable rig is better!) makes for a very easy re-flow, that if done properly, will last as long (or longer!) than original.

Oh no. Shoot me now, please!

I dunno... My friend picks up a LOT of chicks in his Toyota Prius. I don't see this happening anytime soon. Hell, we can't get the Korea's to play nicely.. What makes you think they'll adopt a global tax system?

Cant say I've ever encountered that. Something to watch out for though, original poster.

I remember that trick, too. If my memory serves me correctly, you don't even need an external display connected. Pressing Fn+F8 after OS X loaded forces the laptop to attempt to output display to the VGA port, and finding nothing connected, will default the display back to the internal display and somehow magically wake the display up!

This, good sir, is very handy information! Many thanks for this, Herve.

A quick workaround... Set a hotcorner to sleep the display in 10.7.3, then enable auto-login and update to 10.7.4/5. Once you get to the blank screen, move your mouse to the corner that "sleeps" the display. See if the display wakes back up. This was a common problem with GMA950's on both Dell Laptops and desktops.

Since I haven't seen any other threads for BIOS settings on the D520, I figured I'd go ahead and mark mine down as what works, and what shouldn't be tinkered with to get either Snow Leopard or Lion up and running. These BIOS settings were taken straight from Dell Latitude D520 BIOS version A08. System: -System Info -Processor Info -Memory Info -Device Info -Battery Info -Battery Health -Date/Time -Boot Sequence None of these fields are configurable, except "Boot Sequence". As the Latitude D520 has a boot selection menu (F12 at BIOS screen), I do not recommend changing any of the "Boot Sequence" options. Make your boot selections in the boot selection menu. Onboard Devices: -Fast IR = Off -Integrated NIC = Enabled w/PXE -Internal Modem = Enabled -External USB Ports = Enabled -Parallel Port = ECP -Serial Port = COM1 -PC Card and 1394 = Enabled (OS X will not boot without 1394 enabled!) Video: -Brightness = Any -Brightness (AC) = Any -LCD Panel Expansion = Enabled Security: -Admin Password = Not Set -System Password = Must be set for sleep/hibernation to function! -Internal HDD PW = Not Set -Password Change = Permitted -Password Bypass = Reboot/Resume bypass -Wireless Hotkey Change = Denied (Not sure about this.) -CPU XD Support = Enabled -Computrace ® = Deactivate Performance: -Multi Core Support = Enabled -HDD Acoustic Mode = Performance -SpeedStep Enable = Enabled Power Management: -Auto On Mode = Off -Auto On Time = X:XX -USB Wake Support = Off (OS X will kernel panic upon wakeup with this on!) -Wake on LAN/WLAN = Off -Serial ATA DIPM = Enabled Maintenance: -Load Defaults = Cancel (Use only if you muck up BIOS too bad!) -Service Tag = Some random alpha-numeric tag Dell assigns your machine Docking: -Dock Device Info = Only valid if you are using a Dell Dock -Undocking Method = Hot Undock -Universal Connect = Enabled POST Behavior: -Adapter Warnings = Enabled -Fn Key Emulation = Scroll Lock -Fast Boot = Enabled -Keypad (Embedded) = Fn Key Only -Mouse/Touchpad = Touchpad-PS/2 -Numlock LED = On -USB Emulation = Enabled Wireless: -Internal Bluetooth = Enabled -Internal Wi-Fi = Enabled -Wireless Hotkey = Wi-Fi & Bluetooth The above BIOS settings will allow you to run OS X Snow Leopard or Lion with full sleep/hibernate compatibility.

On a whim, I set my USB ports to "Compatible" in my D520. I can confirm that it indeed slowed OS X Lion to a crawl. Reminded me of the days when we had to boot with "CPUS=1" or suffer the dual-core stutter that Dell laptop's were notorious for. Also, Herve, give me an hour or two and I'll throw up a post for the D520 BIOS settings required to boot OS X. (I've found that some matter, most don't.)

Use exFAT. All Linux (All major flavors, anyway), OS X (10.6.5+), and Windows (XP+) operating systems support exFAT. It allows disk sizes up to some insane number, like 64ZiB, with file sizes up to 54Tb. I've got my external hard drive formatted in exFAT, specifically for this reason. It works flawlessly with Windows 7 and OS X Lion having read/write support natively. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ExFAT

What you can do (and I did) is create a small partition (10Gb) on your hard drive, and create the myHack installer on that. Then, you can simply reinstall OS X from the hard drive, anywhere you may accidentally break your install just by rebooting and selecting the installer partition in Chameleon. It works pretty easily, actually.

Make sure your hard drives are in AHCI mode in BIOS. Not doing this is a guaranteed way to get this error. If your BIOS doesn't support AHCI, you can find patched IOATAFamily kexts that enable standard IDE disks to be seen in the OS X installer. Just place it in the myHack /Extra folder.

I, too, have had this issue. On Snow Leopard. Turned out to be a bad VoodooPS2 controller. Upon wakeup, it would repeat either the "&" key, or the "7" key, as well as random mouse movements. (Erratic movement, random clicking, etc..) Using a stock ApplePS2 controller usually fixed it. (Reinstall EDP with standard options, choosing the non-modified ApplePS2. This will disable touchpad clicking, edgescrolling, two-finger scrolling, etc...) I'd try reinstalling EDP with the stock ApplePS2 controller first, just to verify its not a hardware issue. (Or use a live USB install of any version of Linux and see if the problem happens there as well.)

No problem. Not sure why the link isn't working. Go to the forum main page and click "E.D.P" at the top. It will take you to the same page I linked. For multi-boot: http://www.osxlatitude.com/dual-boot-osx-windows-made-easy/

The D630 should be extremely easy to put OS X on, as long as you follow the guide outlined here: http://argo.osxlatitude.com/ You should be up and running OS X Snow Leopard/Lion within an hour after creating a myHack install USB. (You'll need some installed version of OS X to accomplish this, whether its a Virtual Machine, a friends Mac, or another computer with OS X on it.)

Personally, I'd go with the D630, mainly because I think its a better supported machine. From the 6400 Research thread: